Baker's Percentages

Baker's Percentage You'll often want to scale a recipe up or down. You can do this by multiplying the ingredient quantities by a given factor or by doing some division to figure out the ratios of the ingredients. The best system that we have found for making a recipe easy to scale is called baker's percentage, a method of measurement that is widely used in pastry and baking books. In a recipe that uses baker's percentage, one reference ingredient usually the ingredient that most affects the yield or the cost of the recipe-is set to 100%. The quantity of each other ingredient is then cited as a percentage of the reference ingredient's weight. For example, our recipe for Sous Vide Instant Hollandaise (see page 4-228) sets egg yolks as the reference ingredient at 100% and calls for 75 grams of yolks. It calls for vinegar at a scaling of 47%, meaning 47% of the weight of the egg yolks-not 47% of the yield or47% of the sum of all ingredients, just 47% of the weight of however much the yolks weigh. So if you're using 75 grams of egg yolks to make the recipe, you need 35 grams of vinegar, because 75 grams times 47% equals 35. But say you only have 65 grams of egg yolks. How much vinegar should you use? This is where the scaling percentage really simplifies things. Just multiply the same 4 7% for vinegar times the actual weight of egg yolks available-65 grams-to get the answer: 30.5 grams of vinegar. Keep in mind that the percentages of the minor ingredients will not add up to 100% because scaling percentages give the weight as a proportion of the VOLUM E 5 · PLATED ·D ISH REC I PES weight of the reference ingredient, not of the total weight of all ingredients in the recipe. One challenge in using baker's percentages is that they can be difficult to use if you want to omit or add an ingredient, or if you substitute several ingredients of different quantities. This issue comes up most frequently in recipes that involve small quantities of potent thickeners or gelling agents, but also for more common ingredients such as salt. In the hollandaise recipe, for example, if you decided to use a more flavorful wine and stock, you may choose to reduce it a bit less than the recipe calls for to achieve the balance of flavors you want. But how should you then adjust the quantity of egg yolks to preserve the texture of the sauce? We provide a special scaling percentage in many cases to help with such situations. A note at the bottom of the recipe explains how the special percentage is calculated. Often it is a proportion of the weight of all ingredients in the recipe or of all other ingredients (omitting the weight of the ingredient that has the special percentage listed). In the example above, we added the weights of the wine-shallot-vinegar reduction, the stock or water, and the butter, which came to about 268 grams when we made the recipe. The weight of the eggs, at 75 grams, is 28% of268 grams, so we include the 28% as a special scaling percentage. So, if in your adjustments to the recipe, you find that you end up with 300 grams of reduction, stock, and butter instead of the 268 grams we got, you can easily work out how much egg yolk to use by simply multiplying 300 grams by 28%: 84 grams of yolk should produce a texture very close to the original version. The special scaling sometimes becomes crucial when using recipes that include hydrocolloids that are quite powerful in small quantities, so must be added with great precision. Our recipe for a gelled Long Island Iced Tea on page 4·141, for example, suggests using 5.6% as much gelatin as you use of cola, thus 6.75 grams if using 120 grams of cola. But that ratio would not work well if you were to omit the tequila. In that case, you should instead use the special scaling listed for gelatin, which is 1.6% of the total weight of all the other ingredients, or 6.25 grams. Similarly, if you wanted to add, say, 60 grams of whiskey to the recipe, the special scaling percentage would let you easily work out the right amount.

Sugar Temp

Sugar Temperatures - NoBadFoodLab

Stage - Temp - Sugar Concentration
Thread (Syrup) - 110 to 112 °C (230 to 234 °F) - 80% Sugar Concentration
Soft Ball (Fudge) - 112 to 116 °C (234 to 241 °F) - 85% Sugar Concentration
Firm Ball (Soft Caramel Candy) - 118 to 120 °C (244 to 248 °F) - 87% Sugar Concentration
Hard Ball (Nougat) - 121 to 130 °C (250 to 266 °F) - 90% Sugar Concentration
Soft Crack (Salt Water Taffy) - 132 to 143 °C (270 to 289 °F) - 95% Sugar Concentration
Hard Crack (Toffee) - 146 to 154 °C (295 to 309 °F) - 99% Sugar Concentration
Clear Liquid - 160 °C (320 °F) - 100% Sugar Concentration
Brown Liquid (Liquid Caramel) - 170 °C (338 °F) - 100% Sugar Concentration
Burnt Sugar - 177 °C (351 °F) - 100% Sugar Concentration

The names come from the methods used to test the syrup before thermometers became affordable. The "thread" stage is tested by cooling a little syrup, and pulling it between the thumb and forefinger. When the correct stage is reached, a thread will form. This stage is used for making syrups. For subsequent stages, a small spoonful of syrup is dropped into cold water, and the characteristics of the resulting lump are evaluated to determine the concentration of the syrup. A smooth lump indicates "ball" stages, with the corresponding hardness described. At the "soft crack" stage, the syrup forms threads that are just pliable. At the "hard crack" stage, the threads are brittle.

This method is still used today in some kitchens. A candy thermometer is more convenient, but has the drawback of not automatically adjusting for local conditions such as altitude, as the cold water test does.

Once the syrup reaches 171 °C (340 °F) or higher, the sucrose molecules break down into many simpler sugars, creating an amber-colored substance known as caramel. This should not be confused with caramel candy, although it is the candy's main flavoring.

Coddled Egg Method

Put the eggs into the Rational cook at 65C for 47 Mins then chill.

Keep Refrigerated. Use Within 3 Days.

For service crack into simmering water for 3 mins to heat

Cream Whippers N2O vs CO2

N2O is more stable than CO2.

Mixing N2O with water or cream won't create different molecules. If the liquid you add N2O is not very thick (like water) the gas and liquid will separate in two. If it is thick, as with cream, the gas will get trapped in it.

CO2 reacts with water (H2O) making H2CO3 (carbonic acid). It makes soda water, which has a slight acid taste, and get bubbles of released CO2 if the pressure of the soda water falls. CO2 can be used for whipping cream, but it will give acid taste to it, so NO2 is more suitable for most applications.

CO2 Produces the fizzy sensation found in carbonated drinks where as N2O will aerate cream as whipped.

None of them cools liquids. The chargers get cooled down when opened, as the gas inside them decreases pressure. But that gas goes to the cream whipper or the soda siphon, which theoretically should increase its temperature, but having a much larger volume than the charger makes that increase unnoticeable

Edible Oyster Shell

This Creative recipe comes from the amazing kitchen WD50 which sadly closed in 2014. chef Wilie Dufrainse now runs DU’s DONUTS

Oyster Shell:
150g - Kaolin Base
50g - Hazlenut Oil
15g - Butter Melted
0.45g - Xanthum Gum
25g - Unseasoned Squid Ink

Preheat a convection oven to 200°F
Place the kaolin base in a blender and, with the machine running, stream in the oil and melted butter at low speed.
Shear in the xanthan gum.
Transfer the mixture to a small bowl and gently and irregularly fold in the squid ink—the colors should not homogenize.
Coat 12 small madeleine molds with cooking spray and cut out twelve ½-inch squares of parchment.
Spoon one demitasse of the clay-ink mixture into each mold. Coat one side of the parchment squares with cooking spray and place on top of the mixture. Press to distribute over the mold and place a few dried beans on top for weight. Bake until crunchy, 30 to 40 minutes.

Salt and Pepper Squid (Crisp)

360 - Squid
14 - Salt
360 - Tapioca Starch
40 - Squid Ink Powder

Blitz the squid and salt in a thermomix and blend untill smooth. then add the tapioca and squid ink powder. Vac the mixture in several bags (equal quantities) then roll flat simmer or steam the bags for 45 mins. shock in ice water. cut into rectangles then dehydrate at 60C untill just dry. fry at 190C untill puffed

Coddled Eggs Method

CODDLED EGG METHOD


Put the eggs into the Rational (Combi Steam Ovan) cook at 65C for 47 Mins then chill.

Keep Refrigerated. Use Within 3 Days.

For service crack into simmering water for 3 mins to hea

Cream Whippers N2O vs CO2

N2O is more stable than CO2.

Mixing N2O with water or cream won't create diffetent molecules. If the liquid you add N2O is not very thick (like water) the gas and liquid will separate in two. If it is thick, as with cream, the gas will get trapped in it.

CO2 reacts with water (H2O) making H2CO3 (carbonic acid). It makes soda water, which has a slight acid taste, and get bubbles of released CO2 if the pressure of the soda water falls. CO2 can be used for whipping cream, but it will give acid taste to it.

CO2 Produces the fizzy sensation found in carbonated drinks where as N2O will aerate cream as whipped.

None of them cools liquids. The chargers get cooled down when opened, as the gas inside them decreases pressure. But that gas goes to the cream whipper or the soda siphon, which theoretically should increase its temperature, but having a much larger volume than the charger makes that increase unnoticeable

Culinary Glossary

A

Agar Agar - seaweed based gelling agent
Ageing - the process of keeping something for a period of time to improve flavour, texture or aroma
Al Dente - an italian expression meaning “to the tooth” indicating the correct degree of cooking of rice, pasta and vegetables.
Ambrosia - in Greek mythology it was the food of the gods! - also the best cup of tea i have ever had!
AOC - Appelation d'Origine Contrôlée - French certification granted to certain French geographical indications for wines, cheeses, butters, and other food items
Apicus - a grand foodie of the roman empire - sometimes Apicus Cuisine is described as the food of the roman empire.

B

Brandad - french dish - a puree of cooked salt cod with garlic
Bard - to layer fat over the top of something before roasting in the ovan
Bacchus - in Roman mythology the god of wine
Blind Bake - to cook the empty shell of a tart or pie
Ballontine - To roll a product (usually meat) up into a cylinder with clingfilm or muslin. can be served hot or cold.
Banquet - a formal meal for a large number of guests usually to celebrate or mark an occasion.
Blanch - to quickly cook or partly cook an ingredient in seasoned boiling water
Brix - the scale used to measure sugar content. one degree Brix is 1 gram of sucrose in 100 grams of solution. measued with a Refractometer or a hydrometer
Beurre Monté - to add butter and fully emulsify. to melt butter but keep it fully emulsified
Bain-Marie - a bath of hot water used to keep food warm
Baste - to spoon a liquid over an ingredient as it cooks

C

Centrifuge - a machene used in molecular kitchens that spins liquid products at high speed to separate solids from liquids
Cartouche - Basically a lid made from butter paper or grease proof paper
Chinois - a conical strainer with a handle
Cider - an alcoholic drink made from the natural fermentation of fruit juice
Cloche - a convex dish cover made of brass silver or steel used in formal restaurants to keep food hot on the way to the table.
Cock-A-Leekie - a traditional scottish soup of chicken and leek
Confit - to cook something (traditionally meat) in fat at a low temperature for a long time.

D

Deep Fry - to cook an item submerged in hot oil
Dariole - a small deep round mold with slopping sides. used for portioning or cooking desserts
Decoction - the extraction of constituents of a ingredients by boiling it in water. used bouillons, court-bouillons and consomes
Deglaze - to add wine, water or stock to a pan that has been cooked in to remove the flavour from its surface.
Degorger - to soak meat or fish in water to remove impurities or to sprinkle vegetables with sugar and salt to draw out moisture and remove bitterness

E

Ecossaise (a la) - a french culinery term meaning “in the style of scotland”
Ester (sugar) - Hydrocolloid - Emulsifier used for making stable light foams
Elixer - a solution of aromatic substances in an alcohol
Emulsion - a preperation that involves dispensing one kind of liquid (in the form of tiny droplets) in another liquid, with which is does not naturally mix.
Escoffier - a renowned french chef. revolutionised french cuisine in the late 1800s and early 1900s. he was known as the emperor of chefs or the king of chefs

F

Flavour - the sensation produced when food comes in contact with taste buds on the tongue.
Foam - a Liquid that suspends air within its structure
Foie Gras - goose or duck liver that is enlarged by feeding the birds with a high fat diet (usually corn)
Food - a substance eaten in order to sustain life - and so much more than that…
Food Allergen - any substance contained in food that can produce and adverse immune reaction in anyone predisposed to it
Farce - a stuffing usually made from meat
Finnan Haddie - a north eastern Scottish delicacy that is cold smoked haddock. smoked with peat and green wood.

G

Galantine - a process of boning stuffing and rolling meat into a cylinder (usually poultry/game). the cylinder is then cooked cooled and sliced before serving. (always served cold)
Game - all wild meats that are hunted (sometimes wrongfully named for farmed animals that are or used to be hunted)
Ganache - chocolate and cream
Gastronomy - the art of good eating
Grog - a 17th century drink containing rum (or whiskey) , water, sugar and sometimes lemon
Gruel - one of the oldest forms of nourishment. a liquid food made my boiling cereal flour with milk. water or vegetable broth ( porridge is a modern decendant from gruel)

H

HACCP - Hazard Analysis, Critical Control Point - a health hygiene monitoring system most British chefs use.
Haggis - Scottish national dish, a type of spiced offal sausage traditionally cooked in a sheeps stomach.
Halal - Arab word meaning legal which is used to designate foods whose consumption is authorised by Islam
Hydrocolloid - a substance affects liquid - a “culinary chemical”
Hydrometer - a tool used to measure the gravity or density of liquids. it can be used to measure sugar content.

I J K L

Infusion - the process of adding flavour to an ingredient with other ingredients
Jus - a French culinary term meaning gravy, sauce or cooking juices
Junket - an ancent dessert similar to pannacotta except the gelatin is replaced with rennit and the milk is curdled rather than set.
Kedgeree - a British breakfast dish originally from india consisting of rice, spices, smoked haddock and egg
Ketchup - a sweet and sour vegetable based condiment
Kimchi - a Korian preparation of spicy fermented cabbage
Kosher - food that is permitted to be eaten according to Jewish dietary law
Larding - to add fat to lean meat using a larding needle. the fat is threaded through the meat.
Leaven - any substance that can produce raising through fermentation of dough or batter.

M N O P

Mouli - a hand cranked food processing machine. like a colinder with a padde that can mash stuff like potatoes.
Muslin - fine cloth for passing liquids and wrapping food
Mince - to chop very finely with a knife
Macédoine - to cut vegetables into large cubed dice
Moire Poix - roughly cut carrots onions leek and celery
Macerate - to soften my soaking in liquid
Mandolin - a vegetable slicer
Marinade - to soak something in aromatic liquid in order to flavour/soften/tenderise
Moisten - to add liquid to something.
Maillard reaction - a chemical reaction between amino acids and reducing sugars that gives browned food its distinctive flavour.
Nappe - the consistency that coats perfectly. to sauce over an ingredient
Organic - food grown or raised without chemicals or artificial growth enhancers, without chemical fertilisers or pesticides
Pass - to strain a liquid through something like a chinoix, sieve or conical strainer
Pass - the area of the kitchen were plates are presented before going to the customer
Plancha - a large flat cooking surface
Poach - to cook in a hot liquid that is not boiling

Q R S T

Refractometer - measures sugar content of a liquid by looking at its refractive index which deals with how much light is bent or refracted.
Roux - a paste made from equal quantities of flour and fat. used to thicken sauces. also a famous culinary dynasty, the roux family have shaped the culinary landscape of Britian.
Reconstitute - to hydrate a dried ingredient
Reduce - to heat something with the intention of boiling off water to reduce its volume increasing flavour and intensity of the liquid
Refresh - to take a hot product and cool it rapidly in ice water
Season - to add flavour to something with salt, acid orspices
Seasonal - produce only available during a particular time of year
Saute - to toss in a frying pan with hot fat
Sear - to brown something quickly in a hot pan
Set - to allow something to solidify
Shuck - to open/remove the shells of an ingredient
Simmer - a barely boiling liquid. hot enough to produce tiny little bubbles that do not break the surface of the water
Skim - to remove impurities or fat from the surface of a product
Sweat - to cook vegetables gently in butter untill they soften but not colour
Stew - to cook in a pot on the stove with a lid (usually for a long time untill tender)
Stock - a flavoured liquid used for cooking
Steep - to soak ingredients in liquid
Smoking Point - the temerature a product begins to smoke (oil/woodchips)
Temper - to harden (chocolate)/ to gradually add a hot liquid to a mix containing eggs to stop them from scrambling.
Torch - to cook something quickly with flame

U V W X Y Z

Vinaigrette - a sauce… Vinegar mixed with oil